Sometimes a Mako drifted into the surf, into the shallows where the waves break.

And that was how Wind invented the wild, dangerous game he came to call surfing the shark.

He'd slip sideways on his paipo and let a rip current — the same kind that had stolen him — carry him quietly around, behind the shark. Then he'd wait for a wave.

And when the wave came, Wind rode it down, right onto the shark's back — and bonk! — hit its nose, hard, smashing it flat with his paipo, now in his hands.

A shark's nose is where you hit, he knew. The stunned Mako would forget what it was doing.

And Wind paddled — hands and feet, furious as a windmill — riding the dizzy shark all the way up onto the beach.

Illustration for Surfing The Shark